Italian Expedition

OK, I recognize that this blog entry is a vast deviation from my normal protocol of documenting backcountry adventures highlighted with pleasant images and sprinkled with family details.  Well, a lot of friends and family have been clamoring for pictures from our recent trip to Italy so here they are.  Debbie(my 1/2 Italian, travel hungry wife) and I have been planning this trip since we were first married.  I briefly visited Italy with friend, Scott Witscher,  while in college as part of a pilgrimage to see the US soccer team play in the world cup.  The U.S. team was fortunately playing in Florence, Italy which subsequently has become one of my favorite cities in the world.  The USA got shellacked but Florence was stunning.  My dear wife has been pummeled with stories of Italian grandeur for more than a decade until we finally saved enough money to take the trip we really wanted. Our traveling partners, Max and Chris Reitz were also up for the adventure which was something of a departure from our usual backpacking expeditions with them. Me, Debbie, Chris, and Max, atop the Duomo, Florence, Italy.

We flew into Rome, where we spent three days in the heart of the city.  Our accommadations were modest but our location was excellent as most of the major attractions were within easy walking distance of our B&B.Debbie showing our small but well located room in Rome

 I was stunned by the sheer volume of historically significant architecture.  It would take several lifetimes to explore all the city has to offer. Around every corner was another 2,000 year old roman temple, many which didn’t have informational plaques.  We were overwhelmed with antiquities!  Some of the highlights were the Forum, the Coliseum, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Vatican and I’ll end right there as there were simply too many amazing sites to list. Obligatory Coliseum photo.Debbie and Chris insuring a future return to Rome at the Trevi fountain.

After Rome, we took a train to Florence, the city that first made me love Italy.  

 My beautiful wife waiting to leave Rome.

Florence was much more approachable than Rome, in that it was smaller(approximately 500,000 people as opposed to 4,500,000 for Rome) and not so overwhelming in terms of the options.  It was everything I’d remembered and hoped it would be.  Gorgeous, saturated with history and art, and with a refined yet friendly finish.  Granted, some things about Florence seemed a like a fairy tale land, but it was wonderful for three days.  We stayed in the Torre Guelfa, built in the 1200′s, this original tower is the highest privately owned tower in Florence.  It’s roof top bar/seating area, predictably has a stunning view of the city, and is conveniently located near the city’s center.   

Sunrise from our hotel with the distant Duomo and campanile.

 Night time from our hotel, Florence, Italy.Arno River, two blocks from the Torre Guelfa.

One of the highlights of Florence was it’s seemingly ever present Duomo.  It’s exquisite marble exterior and Dome designed by Brunelleschi, were stunning to say the least.  If you are ever in Florence wondering if you should pay the 5 Euros to walk to the top of the Duomo, do it.  It is sublime.  From the close up views of the ceiling of the dome, to the journey through it’s double walled structure to the endless views from the top of the dome, it is well worth the entry fee.  Below are several images from Florence’s famous duomo.The Duomo’s intricate marble exterior, Florence, ItalyThe Duomo’s front fascade.The Duomo’s dome interiorFlorence’s campanile as seen from the top of the Duomo.

From Florence, we took a train to Monterosso, one of the five villages which comprise the Cinque Terra area on the northeast coast of Italy.  The area was beautiful, defined by steep agriculture laden seaside hills, and attractive, vertically oriented villages built on impossibly angled cliffs.  We spent several days there, perhaps one too many.  My favorite day was spent hiking the 9 mile trail that extends between the 5 villages.  Below are a few images from three of my favorites of the five villages. Vernazza, Italy with its terraced vineyards, orchards, and scenic port.Manarola, Italy.

Riomaggiore, Italy the southernmost of the five villages

The hike between the five villages was beautiful, but crowded.  We ate well and stayed at a wonderful hotel, but as I am more of a mountain person than a beach person, this was perhaps my least favorite stop on a stellar vacation.  Much of the time in the Cinque Terra area was spent lounging and eating, both pleasant activities, but the region certainly couldn’t compete with the culture and history of Rome and Florence, of course few places in the world can.  Below are a couple more shots of my traveling companions, the best anyone could ask for.Debbie Putnam and Chris Reitz.

My long time and great friend, Max and Me.

From Monterosso, we sadly had to part ways from the Reitzs.  From there, Debbie and I headed south and east to the premium wine country of southern Tuscany.  We stayed in the hilltop town of Montepulciano, perhaps my favorite of the trip.  There is something about Montepulciano that tugs at my soul.  Perhaps it’s the combination of beautifully maintained medieval architecture, meaningful agriculture(vineyards have persisted here since the 1200′s) and a friendly community feel.  I have never claimed to be an expert at Italian Wines, although I am fond of Oregon Pinot Noirs, and Walla Walla Cabs.  While in Italy I did find what I like and that was the Vino Nobiles of Montepulciano and the Brunellos of Montalcino.  They both had a medium body with pleasant layering and full finishes.  Both of these styles are grown in the region of southern Tuscany.  While in Montepulciano, we stayed at a beautiful hotel, the historic Villa Poggiano.  below is an olive orchard as seen from the window of our three hundred year old cottage.Next is a sunset view of the city of Montepulciano taken from near our hotel.Our first day there was spent exploring,  having heart attacks while trying to navigate Italian road signs while driving a tiny but sporty fiat rental and eventually exploring the wonderful city of Montepulciano.  It’s ancient and excellently preserved medieval walls are lined with residences, countless wine shops, tasteful gift shops, and exceptional restaurants.  Below is a photo that exemplifies part of what is special about this city.  It is Debbie strolling through a small handmade ceramics shop’s basement, which incidentally includes an Etruscan tomb in its basement which dates to 300B.C.  There are no exterior signs regarding the tombs, nor any national monuments as there would and should be if it was located in the US.  It is simply considered a simple side note in an area deeply submerged in layer upon layer of history.

The tombs are through the door directly to Debbie’s right in this photo.  Next is a view from Montepulciano over the surrounding country side.the followong day we explored the beautiful town of San Gimigano and its wonderful medieval towers and the sleepy residential village of Montichiello.  San Gimigano, like Montepulciano is famous for its wine and is wonderfully maintained village.  Below is a shot taken from the Torre Rosa, the tallest of the 13 medieval towers still standing in the city of San Gimigano.Next is Debbie next to a typical residential staircase in the sleepy hillside town of Montichiello.To be certain the trip was everything we’d hoped for and more.  I’d like to thank several people for making this dream vacation possible.  First off, Max and Chris Reitz for being great friends and great travel partners.  Christine Kieffer, who arranged our itinerary and lodging, both of which were exceptional, Kenny and Flo Scholz(my dreaded inlaws!)  who flew in all the way from New Hampshire to take care of our daughter Emma while were away, and finally my Mother, Sheila Putnam,(who I occasionally bicker with but love and trust more than anything) who drove all the way from Iowa to care for Emma.  It wouldn’t have been possible without these people.  Finally a photo that shows why we were so grateful to be home , even after a trip of a lifetime.Our wonderful daughter Emma who makes me smile everyday.

Broken Top Adventures

     Some of my favorite Central Oregon hiking areas are the alpine basins that surround Broken Top Mountain, located in the Three Sisters Wilderness Area near Mt. Bachelor.  There are several beautiful hiking trails that give good access to amazing alpine scenery high on the flanks of Broken Top, including the Tam McArthur Rim Trail, Park Meadows Trail, Green Lakes Trail, the Crater Ditch trail, and the Broken Top Crater Trail.  All these trails have their own unique visual attractions and different time frames at which they are at their floral apex.  This of course, means, that, as a backcountry photographer, I’m forced to make several photographic journeys to Broken Top every year.  What Torture!  Tam McArthur Rim is one of the first hikes my wife and I did when we moved to Oregon.  It is beautiful, rugged, not too difficult, and easily accessible from the city of Sisters, Oregon, where we lived at the time.  One of my favorite images of Tam McArthur Rim, which extends eastward from the shoulders of Broken Top and is highly visible from the city of Sisters is found Below.

 

This shot was taken from Tam McArthur Rim and displays Middle Sister, North Sister, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt Jefferson to the far right.  Obviously it was a spectacular sunset, one well worth the hike, and even worth the uneasy feeling that comes with a cold hike out in the dark of night.  Another of my favorite locations on Broken Top is the area covered by Broken Top Trail.  This trail starts at a high elevation and stays there.   The next image is from a couple years ago but I’m still  fond of it.  It was taken in the glacial basin at the southern end of the Broken Top trail.

 

Finally I’ll include several images from a recent series of explorations on the east side of Broken Top.  I scouted this area several times within the same week and decided the flowers would soon climax.  I then made sunrise outings on consecutive mornings to appropriately capture what I considered an exceptional floral display with a gorgeous back drop of Broken Top’s Crater.  The first morning, the light was poor and it was very hazy due to forest fires in the vicinity.  The next was different.  I awoke at 3:30 AM  grabbed my enormous backpack full of cameras and lenses and drove to Sparks Lake to determine if the conditions warranted a long drive down forest service road 370 with an hour long off trail hike carrying 50 pounds of gear to follow, all before sunrise.  The conditions at Sparks Lake were questionable at best.  Broken Top was completely obscured except for occasional glimpses of its summit.  I envisioned moody light enhancing an already gorgeous foreground backed by the theatre of Broken Top’s pinnacles intertwined with misty morning clouds.  This was one of those mornings where I gambled and won!  Below are several images I’m thrilled with and I feel the best is yet to come.  Only on exceptional occasions like this do I shoot with my 4×5 large format camera with the hope that a beautiful fine art print will be the ultimate reward.  When the light was at its most dramatic, I utilized my 4×5 film camera, and when it was less optimal, I shot with my high end digital SLR.  So, what you see are essentially the second class images from a special morning.  I’ll let everyone know if the prints come out as well as I hope they will.  Regardless, enjoy the next few images and please let me know which you prefer by leaving comments at the end of this article, or e-mailing me.

Pre-dawn light, moody cloud cover and a beautiful floral foreground

 

One of the best foregrounds I have ever seen!

 

Warm light, mysterious clouds, exceptional flowers, and Broken Top.

 

Even Mt. Bachelor posed for a few images.

 

Eventually, mystic clouds gave way to cheery bluebird skies.

 Overall it was a beautiful and rewarding morning in one of my favorite backcountry locations, high on the flanks of Broken Top mountain, in the heart of the Central Oregon Cascades.

Cascade Lakes Highway

The Cascade Lakes highway, near Bend, Oregon, is arguably one of the prettiest drives in the United States  and is filled with outdoor adventure options.  Fishing, skiing at Mt. Bachelor, cross country skiing from Dutchman Flat, Hiking, climbing, and of course photography.  Every year I make several photographic journeys along the cascade lakes highway, so I decided to spotlight some images that emphasize this area’s impressive beauty.  Sparks Lake is a favorite location of many photographers and I am no exception.  I have to start my exploration of this area with an image of one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever witnessed.  It was the sort of scene which makes me nervous with excitement.  Part of what makes this one of the favorite images in my portfolio is that Debbie and Emma were there to share in this exquisite scene.  Emma to this day refers to this picture as “Froggy Lake”  because of all the frogs she and Debbie studied that evening.

 

The Following image is another taken with Emma, but it required more effort than the previous image.  I awoke long before sunrise, scooped Emma out of bed in her footy pajamas, and we drove to Sparks Lake, where I made trips wading back and forth  in waist deep water carrying gear and Emma to a small island, where this shot was taken.  I was consumed with the scene and Emma was consumed with sleep.  She quickly fell asleep on my down Jacket(see Columbia River Gorge Blog entry) While I worked the scene. Soon the light became too harsh, and hummingbirds frantically worked the scene as I had moments before.

The next two images are both of Mt Bachelor, earlier this summer along the shores of Sparks Lake.  The first displays a channel of water gracefully cutting through a field of buttercups, one of the first flowers to announce the arrival of spring along the cascade lakes highway.

Next is Mt. Bachelor fronted by a foreground of Mountain Heather blooming on small islands adjacent to the shores of Sparks Lake.  This specific area of Sparks Lake is in my experience, essentially a holding basin designed by mosquitos in order to exsanguinate crazed photographers, namely myself.

From this image I move along to another of my favorite cascade lakes, Elk Lake.  Elk lake has more developed areas and is famed for a small but relatively stable population of sail boats residing there.  My favorite area of the lake is the “south beach” area, cleverly named for the fact that it is on the south shore and has a beach and not because it sports art deco architecture, palm trees, or a prominent fashion district.  The following image was captured near south beach with South Sister mountain in the background.  The most difficult part of capturing this image was waiting for the dozens of hummingbirds to clear the scene before exposing my film.  Had I not waited the hummingbirds would have been represented by an unattractive blur due to the long exposure times I usually utilize with my large format camera.Next is an image taken this July showing a foreground of columbine, where I fought a similar duel against dive-bombing hummingbirds repeatedly invading my shot.Finally I’ll conclude with a Sparks Lake shot taken three days ago at sunrise.  Another stunning light show at a truly beautiful location.South Sister on the left and Broken Top on the right share the scene with clouds drenched in the warm glow of morning’s first light.  It may not look like this every morning along the Cascade Lakes highway, but I am never disappointed by this beautiful area of Central Oregon.

Three Finger Jack and Canyon Creek Meadow

Debbie Emma and I recently enjoyed an overnight backpacking trip in the Mt Jefferson Wilderness area.  The trail is relatively short(about 5 miles round trip) and the scenery is stunning.  Emma was a trooper while Debbie and I groaned about pack weight.  Below is a shot of my girls shortly after entering the upper canyon creek meadowThe flowers in the lower meadow were a little bit ahead of their prime, but the area is beautiful nontheless.

Below is a shot of our campsite in the lower meadow with a nice view of Three Finger Jack.  

Upper Canyon Creek Meadow is much more alpine in nature and is generally considered to be more scenic, which makes it well worth the additional effort to get there.  While the upper meadow is stunning, camping there is discouraged due to heavy use, instead backpackers are encouraged to camp in the lower meadow and day hike up to the upper meadow, sparing it from extra wear and tear associated with overnight use.  Because of the heavy snow pack from last winter, the flowers in upper meadow are still a bit early, but there were individual groupings that were quite exceptional.  Below is one of my favorites.  Mountain Heather in the foreground, Indian Paintbrush in the midground, backed by the impressive Three Finger Jack.

 

Three Finger Jack and Mountain Heather

The next couple weeks should continue to be quite beautiful  in the upper meadow with thousands of lupines preparing to bloom.  Below is one last image, a wider spread featuring Indian paintbrush, yellow buttercups and Three Finger Jack.

 If you’re planning a trip to Canyon Creek this year, make it soon!

 

Columbia River Gorge/ Tom McCall Preserve

 

On the weekend of May 10, Emma and I decided to visit our good friends, the Reitz’s in Hood River,Oregon.  Unfortunately, Momma Reitz and Joe and Jill were out of town, leaving my good friend Max as the only one left in the household.  The weekend was wonderful.  Emma and I got up early and shot at Tom McCall Nature Preserve in the Gorge, near Rowena.  The light was good for Macros, but not great for more expansive landscape shots.   Several other photographers were at the preserve that morning, shooting and enjoying the scenery. One of the several other photographers I met there, Kim, was nice enough to take some shots of Emma and I and forward them.  He has an attractive website, http://www.kimbrunstudio.com  which you should visit if you like landscapes and flower photography.  Emma, through her mother’s genetics prefers to sleep in and on this morning we had to wake at about 4:30 to arrive before sunrise.  I knew she would be cold, so I brought my orange down jacket, which she fondly refers to as “The Great Pumpkin”.  She predictably got cold so I zipped her up in the great pumpkin and she was instantly comfortable.  Comfortable enough to fall asleep in the middle of the meadow.  Several fellow photographers visited to chat and see my large format camera, and they never even knew she was there beside me because her head was tucked inside the pumpkin, making for a very cute photo.

The next day, Max, Emma, and I visited Fairy Falls , also in the Gorge area and took the following Photo. We had a great trip and as always, It was great to see our friend Max and to enjoy the Columbia River Gorge in the spring.

John Day/Painted Hills

The painted hills unit in the John Day area of Oregon has been a favorite of photographers since its discovery because of its stunning colors and other worldly scenery.  I’ve been there many times.  Some visits were more successful than others, but one particular shot that I’ve obsessed over has eluded me for quite some time.  In early may, in certain years, yellow flowers bloom in the folds of the painted hills, creating a stunning extra element to what would otherwise be an attractive scene.  Well, this was one of those years. I left Bend early on a May 30th to scout the painted hills.  To my excitement, the chenactis and golden bee plants were blooming just as I’d hoped.  The ranger, Scott, a very nice fellow, said it had been five years since they had bloomed in the folds of the painted hills.  He even promised an up close guided tour of the hills if I returned that evening, so I returned to Bend, and returned later that evening, with My wife Debbie and daughter, Emma.  I was fortunate enough to capture this image of blooming bee plants in the grooves of the painted the next morning. It was truly a privilege to get such wonderful access to such a special location.  Below you’ll find several other shots from the same trip that I’m excited about.